Sunday, May 18, 2008

Extreme Edge, The Quarry, and Ti Point.

This weekend was full of climbing. It started at the Extreme Edge on Friday night, what a huge gym. Apparently it used to be an airplane hanger, and it was completely covered with holds and ceilings and rules and whatnot. Case in point: I began to teach till to lead belay so that he could belay me in the future. I was yelled at by three separate people that you are not allowed to teach lead belaying in the gym. This greatly confused me as I find it much safer to teach them in a gym than outside. After I cooled off from that, I had a great time climbing, there were a bunch of routes that were within my ability enough that I didn't feel overtaxed, but that still gave me a challenge. Also I rode over with a guy by the name of Crispin, who reminded me completely of Chris Nolan, so I had a great evening reminiscing about the glory days. I have to admit it made me quite homesick for the ROC.

The next day was pretty laid back, didn't do much, was planning on going to Ti point early with some of the climbers but they bailed. Ended up calling Bogdan and going to the quarry with him, set the top rope on the far crack and abseiled down, it was pretty sweet, Bogdan had a lot of fun. He's from eastern Europe somewhere, I can't remember exactly - Czech republic maybe, and I met him at the gym a couple weeks ago and taught him to lead. We climbed the crack for a while and then headed home as it was getting dark.
Sunday morning at 5 I got up and headed to uni to go to Ti Point with josh, keatin, and danielle. We left very early, and I slept most of the drive. Apparently we stopped for gas at one point and josh bought us all coffee, now I don't actually like coffee, but I felt that it would be poor form to refuse and as it had been a couple years since I last tried it, I thought that maybe it would be better this time around. It wasn't better. It was actually still pretty gross. But I drank it and thanked him and was on a caffeine high for the rest of the morning. Ti Point is a little bit south of Goat island and right on the coast. The holds were mostly sloppers and the rock was sandy so there wasn't much to hold onto. I started a lead in the morning and very quickly decided that it wasn't worth killing myself on so I quit. Tony started to to finish it for me and ended up clipping weird and taking a fall. He swung about 2 meters and smashed into the side of the cliff. It was lucky that he had a helmet otherwise he would probably have a concussion, as it was he got out with a sore tailbone and a bunch of scrapes. He sat out the rest of the day. All in all, I found the climbing there to be very tough, and quite scary. Even as a belayer it was scary as they were on a heap of jagged rocks just above the high tide mark and never had a level place to stand. Tony was the only fall, and when we got back the club passed some new safety restrictions about wearing helmets and whatnot. I did climb a couple routes but they were all on top rope and very few of them were clean. An interesting place to climb, but not one that I will go back to.

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